Hsiao Liuchiu
A Relaxing Island Retreat
By Melanie Seligman, Photos by Sung Chih-hsiung
If the soaring temperatures and standstill traffic of Taiwan make you succumb to the city blues, you might consider a visit to the tranquil retreat of Hsiao Liuchiu (Little Liuchiu, 小琉球), an island 20 kilometers southwest of Kaohsiung. This sparsely populated island offers
urban dwellers a peaceful respite, panoramic views of fishing boats bobbing on clear blue water, and an abundance of fresh seafood.
Ferries depart from Linyuan (林園), just outside Kaohsiung, but it is worth traveling a little further south to catch a ferry from Tungkang (東港), a fishing harbor in Pingtung county. Tungkang has a lively traditional fish market with crabs, lobster, scallops, multicolored fish, and stalls cooking pan-fried oysters and other delicacies. Tungkang's other attraction for
weekend visitors is its crafts market near the beach. Vendors paint bamboo, carve wooden and jade figures, sculpt candy animals, and give kids a chance to sand-paint their own pictures. The crafts market is best visited after dark when the street is lit up by hundreds of red paper lanterns.
There are not many obvious tourist attractions on Hsiao Liuchiu, but that is precisely its charm. The "sights" can be seen in half a day, but it's more rewarding to spend the night. After dusk, you can witness Kaohsiung's transformation from beast to beauty: by day a
sprawling monster, by night it becomes a glimmering dance of lights reflected on the water. Visitors can find good camping sites on the island's sheltered beaches, or choose from four hotels in Penfu Village (本福村). I stayed at the Liuchiu Hotel. One side faces Shuihsien
Temple (水仙宮) , while the other side looks out across the harbor. It is clean and functional; but if you want peace and quiet, choose a hotel away from evening activities that take place outside the temple.
A Lap Around Liuchiu
If you have just half a day on the island, you can either take a taxi or rent a motorcycle near Shuihsien Temple. The best way to rejuvenate your spirits and get a feel for the island is to
pack a lunch, put on a swimsuit, and walk around the island. There is a circular road, with detours to beaches and caves, that is roughly 10 km long. During the week the winding roads are nearly deserted and you will be sharing the beaches with only the dragonflies. On the weekends the island is busy, although few visitors venture into the interior. Most of the center of the island is filled with small hamlets, waving kudzu grass, banana groves, and the odd herd of goats grazing quietly. The villagers living along the circular route either eke out a living fishing, or sell dried squid and shell mats to tourists.
On Hsiao Liuchiu, a stroll along the beach yields all kinds of surprises. Along the shore's edge deep pools are filled with small mollusks and scuttling sea life, and the water is clear and much cleaner than at any of the beaches near Kaohsiung. Unfortunately, the island is still close enough to the city to be marred by a tide mark of bottles and rubbish which sometimes wash up on the beaches.
Lingshan Temple (靈山寺) sits atop a cliff and offers commanding views across the Taiwan Straits. Just beyond the toll gate the effects of wind and sea erosion can be seen in a series of caves.
Beauty Cave
At the end of the Ming dynasty, according to legend, a group of Ming loyalists from Suchou, including an high official and his beautiful daughter, fled to Taiwan to escape pursuing Manchu forces. As they approached Taiwan, a great storm came upon them and they were stranded on Hsiao Liuchiu. Surviving on wild vegetables and fish, they climbed up the hillside every day in hopes of seeing a ship on the horizon. After many months had passed, the island's inhabitants came upon the beautiful woman, crying over the body of her then dead father. Unable to communicate with her verbally, the islanders debated taking her back to their village with them. Frightened by the local people and unwilling to leave her father's body, she bit her own tongue in half as a way of taking her own life. Ever since, the site of this pitiful habitation has been known as "Beauty Cave." At Beauty Cave (美人洞) you can follow a path right down to the ocean, where the coral has formed particularly interesting configurations. When the path heads back up the cliff it winds through several caves, some of which have steps carved into the rock. Most of the caves and grottoes are well lit, with cracks overhead providing natural lighting.
The last cave is a place notorious for the tragic disposal of unwanted baby girls in the last century. Nearby there is a poignant shrine at which offerings are burned to appease the spirits of the discarded infants. Today the area is beset by noodle stands and merchants selling knickknacks.
Colorful Coral Formations
Along the western shore of the island there are several secluded coves. The best spot for swimming, however, is a stretch of sandy beach before you reach Black Ghost Cave (烏鬼洞), the site of a natural freshwater spring. This dark cave is so named because a group of Dutch pirates hiding there was discovered by villagers and burned alive. If you are not afraid of ghosts and like to snorkel, this is a good place to see beautiful coral formations. Here the water is shallow and waves break along a reef about 100 meters out to sea. There are also several kelp forests teeming with scurrying crabs and other sea life. If you go in the water here be aware of strong undercurrents and changing tides, and be sure to wear fins or water shoes as there are plenty of spiny sea urchins. Those who prefer to keep their feet dry, but still want to see underwater scenery, can take a ride in a glass-bottomed boat from Liuchiu harbor. Just browsing through the many souvenir shops, however, you can see colorful displays of red, white, and green-speckled coral.
The aquarium at Seabed Zoo also provides the chance for a close-up look at some of the underwater life around the island. What the collection lacks in variety is compensated by the chatty and knowledgeable staff. Other displays of exotic striped fish can be seen just as easily at any of the many seafood restaurants.
Matsu Temple
At the southern tip of the island is Haikou inlet with, appropriately, an impressive temple dedicated to Matsu, Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors and fishermen. Here a turquoise ocean backdrop and a mass of tropical flowers make the temple an excellent place for taking photographs. A little further along a fork in the road leads into the interior and on to the eastern side of the island. This stretch is more populated; but the cliffs offer good views, and there is a lighthouse with a guard on duty. Continue on past Lobster Cave (龍蝦洞) and follow the crescendo of firecrackers, gong-banging, and ferry horns which announce Penfu harbor.
How to Get There
If you don't have a car, buses to Tungkang harbor may be taken from the Kaohsiung bus terminal. Ferries leave frequently on the weekends, and at 8:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. during the week. The crossing takes about 30 minutes and a return fare costs NT$355. There are also many buses going to Linyuan pier. If you want to be sure of a seat buy a ticket from the Chan'an Boat Company at 65 Mintsu 2 Road in Kaohsiung which includes transport to Linyuan and a return ferry crossing. Hotel rooms on Liuchiu island cost about NT$700 on weekends. Try the Liuchiu Hotel (tel: 08- 861-3281) or the Fuhsing Hotel (tel: 08-861-2617).
Copyright 1995 Vision International Publishing Co.