TiT Scenery:Craggy Rocks and Cascading Water at Taroko Gorge

Taroko Gorge

By Halima Dick and Kao Chieh-ju
Photos by Sung Chih-hsiung

Situated near the rocky east coast of Taiwan, Taroko Gorge (太魯閣) rates as one of the island's biggest tourist attractions. A fantastic 19-kilometer-long canyon, the gorge is a breathtaking spectacle of craggy rocks and cascading water.

Taroko Gorge presents dramatic rocky vistas. Taroko Gorge offers tourists a fabulous opportunity to see nature at its best. The rugged landscape and isolation have meant that the east coast has mostly escaped the industrialization and urbanization of other parts of the island.The area is largely unspoiled and offers visitors the chance to see an astonishing array of geological wonders, an abundance of flora and fauna indigenous to Taiwan, and fascinating aborigine culture.

The sparsely-populated area surrounding the gorge, with its spectacular cliffs and white-water rapids, presents a startling contrast to north and west Taiwan. On the east coast, the mountains fall away sharply to the Pacific Ocean. Dramatic jagged rocks and towering cliffs jut out of the coastline.

The swirling water of Liwu River, which cuts right through the gorge. The Geology of the Area
The stage for the creation of the gorge was set around four million years ago, when the Eurasian tectonic plate crashed with the Philippine plate to create Taiwan's Central Mountain Range. The pressure of the colliding plates forced marble deposits deep in the land surrounding what is now Taroko Gorge to rise sharply to the surface. This marble was gradually eroded by the Liwu River (立霧溪) to form the inspiring gorge. Scientists reckon that continuous erosion by the river, which benefits from Taiwan's yearly average of 2,500 millimeters of rain, is deepening the gorge at a rate of five millimeters a year. The area is famous for its lofty mountains, impressive canyons, sheer precipices, waterfalls, and rapids.

The Taroko Gorge area is inhabited by the Atayal aborigine tribe. The Atayal are best known for their intricate weaving and facial tattoos. Yentzukou and Chiuchutung
Two of the best places for viewing the gorge are Yentzukou (燕子口) and Chiuchutung (九曲洞). Yentzukou (literally Swallow Mouth) offers fantastic views of the gorge and the impressive cliffs opposite. Typical limestone formations, such as swallow holes, can be seen in the cliffs.

From Yentzukou it is possible to hike along the highway to Chinheng Bridge from which the famous "Indian Head" rock can be seen. This dramatic natural sculpture is said to resemble the profile of an American Indian chief--his face being craggy rock, and his head dress the vegetation growing on the cliff edge.

Chiuchutung, literally Nine Curves Cave, also offers breathtaking views of the gorge. This winding tunnel is the longest tunnel on the Central Cross-Island Highway. Sections of the tunnel are open, revealing heart-stopping sheer drops and craggy rocks. Totally man-made, the tunnel is a tribute to the obstinate perseverance of the men who devoted their lives to creating this spectacular road. The tunnel is at one of the steepest sections of the gorge, at certain places the gorge is so narrow that the sky becomes invisible.

Wenshan Hot Springs
At the top of the gorge, about three kilometers up from the picturesque resort village of Tienhsiang (天祥), are the hot springs at Wenshan (文山溫泉). These hot springs are unlike many other hot springs in Taiwan, which have been piped into hotels or bath houses, in that they are completely open-air and natural. The springs can be reached by taking a bus to the national park police station. From there, visitors must walk about 400 meters on up the road, to some steps just before the first tunnel up from Tienhsiang. Walk down, and then across the suspension bridge and down the other side to the springs. The water is bearably hot, at around 46-48 oC.

Flora and Fauna
Taroko Gorge's unique geology means that it displays one of the most varied arrays of plant- and wildlife in Taiwan. The national park encompasses an area ranging from one meter to 3,740 meters above sea level. As the altitude rises, the vegetation changes from broad-leaved forest, through mixed and coniferous forest, to alpine forest. These differing types of vegetation provide different habitats for a wide variety of animal and bird life, including a number of rare species native to Taiwan, such as the Formosan Rock Monkey (Formosan Macaque), the Formosan Pangolin, the Formosan Striped Squirrel, the Formosan Long-nosed Tree Squirrel, the Formosan Black Bear, and the Formosan Serow.

Visitors can stay in these traditional Atayal houses at Puluowan. Cultural Attractions
Taroko Gorge is home to one of Taiwan's aborigine tribes. The Atayal people (泰雅族) have lived for several generations 10 kilometers from the gorge at Puluowan (布洛灣), an area which has been designated a scenic spot by the National Park Administration. There is a round theater, where traditional Atayal dances are performed, and a museum of Atayal arts and crafts here. The village has at least 20 rebuilt traditional Atayal houses, where tourists can stay and learn about the lifestyle of this particular aborigine people. For more information, please tel: (03) 861-2528/861-1012.

The suspension bridge on the trail between Eternal Spring Shrine and Chankuang Temple.(left) Hikers travel part of the old route between Mount Hohuan and the east coast when they walk from Lushui to Holiu.(right) Eternal Spring Shrine and Hsiangteh Temple
Eternal Spring Shrine (長春祠) was built to commemorate the hundreds of men who perished during the construction of the Central Cross-Island Highway, which runs right over the mountains connecting the east and west coasts of Taiwan. The highway was carved out of the sheer cliffs at a cost of some US$11 million and was completed in 1960. Today, it remains one of the greatest feats of engineering in Taiwan's history. Instead of lighting incense to commemorate those who died, worshippers light cigarettes for them.

An underground spring which runs through the shrine has come to symbolize the dedication and sacrifice of the men who devoted their lives to the construction of the road. The shrine is about 300 meters off the main road to the left after the first long tunnel, and is accessible by a footpath.

Hsiangteh Temple (祥德寺) was built to commemorate the Buddhist monk Kuangchin, who prayed for the safety of workers during the construction of the oad to Tienhsiang. The temple is most famous for its thousands of plum trees, and a 36-meter-tall statue of Ksitigarbha (地藏王) and a smaller image of the Goddess of Mercy.

Chankuang Temple
The Chankuang Temple (禪光寺) can be reached by traveling approximately three kilometers along the Central Cross-Island Highway from the eastern entrance. The four-story Zen Buddhist monastery is an imposing traditional Chinese structure which offers splendid views of the spectacular mountain scenery.

Hikes:
The New Changchun Trail (1.35 km)
It is possible to walk the short distance between Eternal Spring Shrine and the Chankuang Temple. Follow the stone trail up the mountainside from behind the shrine. Visitors are reminded to take care on the steep stairs and to watch out for falling rocks. The route offers innumerable sights for the visitor and naturalist alike. One of the area's most sensational views can be seen from the bell tower at the trail's highest point. From there the curve of the Liwu River and the sheer cliffs caused by river erosion are clearly visible. Beyond the bell tower, the route descends to a suspension bridge leading to the Zen monastery and road beyond.

Along the route, it is possible to see an abundance of plants, including the stem star jasmine, and animal sightings are commonplace. Watch out for rock monkeys and squirrels.

Lushui - Holiu (1.97 km)
There is a Geological Information Center (tel: (03) 869-1129) at Lushui (綠水) explaining the area's special geological features. Turn right above the white park office at Lushui to find the short trail to Holiu (合流). This route is part of the old road between Mount Hohuan and the east coast. There is a small suspension bridge followed by a narrow tunnel. Near the end of the trail is a dirt road leading up the mountain to the left. To continue to Holiu turn right down the road to the highway.

The hike to Paiyang Waterfall offers spendid examples of the area's geology. Paiyang Waterfall (2.1 km)
About 300 meters up the highway from Tienhsiang is a tunnel carved into the cliff at the roadside. Walk the length of this 380-meter tunnel and carry on along the trail at the far end. The walk to Paiyang Waterfall (白楊瀑布) takes about one hour. Along the way, you will see splendid examples of the geology and morphology of the marble gorge. The path is wide and well-maintained. For more information about tours and hiking trails in the area, please contact the Taroko Gorge National Park Administration Tourist Information Center, tel: (03) 862-1100.

Suggested Tours
One-day Tour:
From either Hualien or Taichung, travel to Taroko Gorge and spend the day exploring the scenic sights between the gorge and Wenshan Hot Springs.

Hualien; Mouth of Taroko Gorge; Puluowan; Yentzukou; Chinheng Bridge; Lushui Geological Information Center; lunch at Tienhsiang; Wenshan Hot Springs; Tzumu Bridge; Chiuchutung; Eternal Spring Temple; Hualien.

Two-day Tour:
An overnight stay can be made at either Puluowan or Tienhsiang. Day One: Hualien; Mouth of Taroko Gorge; Yentzukou; Chinheng Bridge; Lushui Geological Information Center; lunch at Tienhsiang; Paiyang Waterfall; Wenshan Hot Springs; overnight at Tienhsiang.

Day Two: Tienhsiang; Hsiangteh Temple; Lushui Trail and Information Center; Tzumu Bridge; Chiuchutung; lunch at Puluowan; enjoy the scenery; hike from Eternal Spring Temple to Chankuang Temple; Hualien.