The people seem different as well. Even though Tainan and Kaohsiung are large cities, symptoms of suburban stress are much less apparent among their inhabitants. There is also something incredibly soothing about leaving the hectic rush of Taiwan's northern cities and heading south. Certainly the weather is better: Positioned below the Tropic of Cancer, the southern part of the island has warmer weather and less rain. For visitors who have seen the cities and want to spend some time on the beach or in the countryside, a popular choice is to head for the southernmost tip of the island and the sightseeing spots of Kenting and Hengchun.
Charm of a Different Sort
Compared to its highly commercialized neighbor to the southeast, the town of Hengchun may not have immediate appeal. Most people visiting the area prefer to stay in the resort town of Kenting. With its national park, sandy beaches, discos, and live music, Kenting is one of the island's most popular tourist destinations. Hengchun, however, has charm of a different sort.
In Hengcun the more relaxed pace of the south is readily evident; it is an old-time farming town, with a massive wall and gates that are over 100 years old. Altogether the wall--once roughly 3,000 meters around--and the four gates (north, south, east, and west) comprise some of Taiwan's oldest and most complete architectural structures.
According to local lore it was not until 1874, following a conflict with the Japanese near present-day Hengchun, that a Ching dynasty official discovered the area had no defense fortifications and began considering the idea of constructing a fortified town.
The building of Hengchun's fortifications was no mean task. Beginning in 1875, water buffaloes were used to haul materials to make bricks for walls that were five meters high and six meters thick. After five years the project was completed, and local residents gradually began moving inside. Original dwellers consisted of both Hakkanese, Han Chinese who migrated south from central China and eventually to Taiwan, and Hoklo, mostly coming from Fukien province.
The Impact of Time
The town's old architectural structures have been through a lot since the last mud brick was squeezed into place. The Ching dynasty's rule gave way to the Japanese in 1845, and in 1945 the troops of Chinese Nationalist (KMT) leader Chiang Kai-shek took over after Japan's defeat in WWII. Countless typhoons and driving rain have also pounded down upon the old fortifications. Concerned over the disintegration of the town's historical architecture, local residents appealed to the government for help. Reconstruction efforts, led by the Tourism Bureau, have restored many structures to their present state.
Visitors to the southern tip of the island usually pass by Hengchun on the way to Kenting. All government and most private buses coming from Kaohsiung make stops there. While going through town you are most likely to notice the impressive shape of the South Gate. If you have a little time, get off the main highway, drive along some of the town's narrow streets, and take a look at the other gates; they are all intact. At the East Gate, located along the highway to Manchou, a major piece of the wall has been rebuilt. The brilliant green of the fields in the background makes this spot especially good for taking pictures. For a look at the old wall, it is best to go to the North Gate.
A Leisurely Pace
Untouched by many of the negative aspects of industrialization, Hengchun is still a town where citizens move at a leisurely pace. This is perhaps because most younger people move out of the area in search of higher wages and the thrill of a metropolitan lifestyle. The most exciting weekly event is a night market every Sunday. If you have not been to a night market before, this is exciting. In Hengchun around 200 different stands sell a wide variety of curios and local cuisine. For most
people, however, a daylight visit is the best way to appreciate this classic small town. A good one-day travel itinerary is to do a loop of the whole southern tip of the island by car or motorcycle, including Hengchun and Kenting.
For those fleeing the hectic pace of the cities, a trip to the southern tip of the island is an excellent choice. With beautiful, clean beaches, the town of Kenting is rapidly becoming a world-class resort. But if only out of curiosity, if only out of sentimentality, if only to make a comparison, it is certainly worth stopping off at Hengchun.