"Climbing is the sport of the courageous," he said, "and mountains are the greatest reminder of the impermanence of humankind. By testing our strength and endurance against them, we can engrain into ourselves the importance of teamwork, cooperation, and judgment. Taiwan, which is so small and over 70% mountainous, has mountains that are both tremendously beautiful and a valuable training resource."
Discovering Formosa
For many people who have not seen much more than the bustling, almost sleepless activity of the island's big cities, the idea of mountain climbing in Taiwan might seem incongruous. Yet when Taiwan is looked at from the top of peaks that rise above 3,800 meters, it is easy to understand why early Portuguese explorers called it Formosa, or "beautiful island."
Taiwan's highest peak, the breathtakingly beautiful Jade Mountain, complete with pine trees and alpine meadows, is the highest point in East Asia. At 3,952 meters, its lofty brow exceeds even Japan's Mt. Fuji. Another striking mountain and a favorite of climbers is Tapachienshan. Arguably the island's most beautiful and dangerous mountain, it juts up into the heavens like a pyramid, or Taiwan's own Matterhorn.
While a great way to take in some of Taiwan's most spectacular scenery, "mountain climbing" in Taiwan should perhaps be redefined for seasoned mountaineers who interpret the sport as involving extensive technical training, or forging pioneer routes up unconquered peaks. You can get to the top of most of Taiwan's mountains without taking your feet off solid ground, or out of the snow, depending on the season you go in. "Mountain climbing," using the local definition of the term, requires approximately the same gear that one would take on a backpacking trip. Some special preparation is necessary for more difficult climbs, however, especially during wintertime.
Difficult but Not Technical
The Chinese Taipei Alpine Association's (CTAA) climbing leader, Chung Ming-chun, admits that Taiwan does not really have any climbs that involve special skills or equipment.
"Almost anywhere you go," he said, "there are protection ropes already in place or pins preinstalled for climbing parties." "Endurance," he stressed, "is the most important factor in getting to the top." But this does not mean that making it to the summits of Taiwan's peaks is easy. On the final approach to the summit of Jade Mountain, for example, high altitude and a steep trail have made many a fine athlete wheeze for breath and many a smoker vow to give up the habit.
This month Chung and his fellow climbers are headed to Nepal to attempt a repeat of last spring's triumph which summited two members of Taiwan's 1995 Everest expedition.
A government-supported climbing club, the CTAA sponsors a different climb, hike, or alpine-related activity nearly every week. While a number of these activities are hikes to mountains in the vicinity of Taipei, the association does lead climbs to Jade Mountain, Tapachienshan, and other peaks of varying difficulty throughout the island. For a reasonable fee, including transportation and food, anyone can join in these activities. CTAA is also the proud host of the Olympic International Hi-land Marathon to the site of Taiwan's only ski resort, 3,416-meter Hohuanshan.
Climbing Permits, Climbing Clubs, and Guide Services
For alpinists climbing the higher mountains, a climbing permit is required, but not necessarily checked during ascent. Climbing permits can be obtained only by going through a climbing club, or by enlisting guide services. Most organizations ask climbers to register at least 10 days prior to a scheduled activity, or one month in advance if a trip is to be put
together. Participating in a climb organized by a climbing club provides a good opportunity to get to know a group of Taiwanese climbers. Clubs schedule a series of events every three months.
In Taipei, both the Chinese Taipei Alpine Association and the Republic of China Alpine Association welcome participation by foreigners. The Chinese Taipei Alpine Association, located in the National Physical Education Building, 20 Chulun Street, Rm. 703; Tel: (02) 751-0938, hosts activities almost weekly. Set prices for its climbing trips, which vary according to destination and duration of climb, include the cost of transportation, food, and climbing permits.
The Republic of China Alpine Association, Tel: (02) 591-1498, invites enthusiasts to become members, which entitles them to participate in group activities. If the climb you are interested in is not scheduled, guided trips can be organized for NT$1,000 per person, not including food or transportation.
A good place to collect information or get outfitted for alpine activities is the Ting San Iou Mountain Equipment store, 18 Chungshan N. Road, Sec. 1; Tel: (02) 311-6027. Ting San Iou has a very helpful staff and distributes several Chinese-language periodicals and brochures related to mountaineering in Taiwan. One mountaineering handbook, available for NT$150, includes the names, addresses, and phone numbers of nearly 200 mountain climbing organizations spread all across the island. Ting San Iou also sponsors its own alpine activities on a weekly basis.
If the flexibility and services of a guide company are more to your liking, one guide company that offers climbing tours for mostly corporate clients is the China Mountain Guide Company, 192 Fuhsing N. Road, 14F; Tel: (02) 503-6120.
Hardened mountaineers seeking to forge a new approach to Taiwan's emerald or alabaster spires may be disappointed to know that a path and perhaps a handrail has proceeded them. But for the fit visitor who wants to see some truly spectacular scenery, a journey to Taiwan's high mountains is essential to really experiencing the island. After you have returned to the lowlands and the soreness in your muscles begins to fade, you can reflect on your trip's spiritual dividends. As Legislator Jao so eloquently put it, "Mountains humble us by reminding us we are just transient passengers on this planet. " What better place to spend part of your "ride" in Taiwan than in its most beautiful places, the high country.