Sometimes, amidst the rush and swirl of Taiwan's larger cities, it is easy to forget that a quieter life still exists on the island. But there is a place where Taiwan's traditional past is so well preserved that a visit there can feel like a step back in time. The town of Tunghsiao (通霄 ), situated between Taipei and Taichung on Taiwan's west coast, offers visitors this unique opportunity.
The countryside surrounding Tunghsiao is made up of a patchwork of waving green lakes of rice where multiple generations of farming families still live together in traditional red-brick "san-ho yuan" (三合院 ) three-sided houses. These U-shaped san-ho yuan homes dot the gently rolling fields surrounding Tunghsiao, and many of the homes are connected by a network of paths that wind their way through the quiet sea of paddy fields. Quite a few of the families that inhabit the houses have been passing the farms down to their children for generations.
Functional Farmhouses from the Past
The san-ho yuan is a traditional type of Chinese farmhouse specifically designed to be simple and highly utilitarian. The modest architecture is not burdened with unnecessary embellishments or decorations, and every part has a purpose. From a Western point of view, these houses bring to mind the minimalist Shaker homes found in the midwestern region of the United States. The homes are built of red brick, mud, and wooden beams. The thick mud walls are specifically designed to keep families warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Each house is actually made up of three smaller units that form the "U" shape. A gate or wall across the front of the structure secures residents from intruders and encloses a stone courtyard used for drying crops and family gatherings. The center of the back house is always occupied by a small ancestral shrine that faces out into the courtyard. Traditionally, the eldest member of the family lives in the rear-left room of the house, while the first-born child occupies the rear-right room. The front left room is usually a kitchen and dining area and the front right room is used for storage. If the family has many children, additional rooms are added onto the back of the house. It is not uncommon, however, for three or more children to share a room.
All the homes are structurally and fundamentally similar, but over the years many have been added onto and "customized," lending each house a unique personality of its own. It is particularly interesting to note the small details that differentiate the homes. An observant visitor will quickly notice which homes have been in the same family since their construction, which homes have been reconstructed to accommodate children, and which homes, or parts of homes, are in their original form.
A Special Architectural Feature
The homes of Tunghsiao differ from many of the other san-ho yuan houses found in other parts of Taiwan because of the unique geological features of the region. The soil in Tunghsiao is full of large, round stones and the farmers who settled in the area had to remove them before they could put in their rice crops. Instead of simply rolling the boulders into the ocean, the farmers
chose to use them as a building material. The base of every san-ho yuan house in Tunghsiao incorporates these large, sand-colored stones. Berms that divide the rice paddies, typically made of mud throughout Asia, are also constructed of the stones, lending the countryside a unique and rather striking appearance.
Ironically, the geological make-up of the region that lends the homes an individual flair has also been a major cause of their demise. Tunghsiao is prone to earthquakes and in 1935 a large tremor jolted the region, destroying several of the oldest homes. In addition, being made primarily of brick and wood, the houses are prone to fire. Over the years a number of fire- and earthquake-damaged homes have been abandoned and left to decay. The government has not protected the homes as historical markers or tourist attractions, so all repairs and construction are undertaken at the expense of residents.
Despite neglect by the government, the houses are amazingly well preserved by a small core of craftsmen who are still capable of constructing and adding onto the structures. Their trade, however, is not as profitable as the construction of modern apartments and temples, and many of the builders no longer have time to work on the san-ho yuan homes when they're in need of repair. Their trade is in danger of becoming a lost art. But for now, the houses that are cared for by families stand like puzzles, pieced together over the years by craftsmen who have carefully passed their trade and knowledge down from one generation to the next.
How to See San-ho Yuan Homes
Those interested in visiting the san-ho yuan homes of Tunghsiao need to keep a few tips in mind. Foremost and most obviously, people still live in them. The fact that the houses are still being used as they were intended adds immensely to their interest; but, as Tunghsiao is not a government-listed public tourist destination, it is important to consider residents' privacy. Always ask before taking pictures and never enter the homes without first having been invited. Most of the residents are exceedingly polite and eager to show visitors their homes.
Be prepared to walk. The houses are all on working farms and this means there are plenty of fields to traverse. The best way to see Tunghsiao is by bicycle; so if you're a cycling enthusiast and happen to have your own wheels, take them on the train with you. It is inexpensive and will increase the amount of ground you can cover once you arrive. A slightly more expensive way of viewing the homes is by taxi. There are quite a few drivers loitering near the train station, and as Tunghsiao is a small town they seem to have plenty of free time. You should be able to negotiate a price of around NT$500 for three hours of sightseeing. The drivers know about the houses, but it would probably be helpful to take along a description in Chinese of exactly what you want to see. From the train station, take Fute Road (福德路) until you see the farms. Fute Road eventually runs into Nanho Road (南 和路 ), which takes you through some of the more scenic areas and winds up at the base of Chiuhua Mountain (九華山). The mountain has a modern temple and offers a great view of the surrounding countryside.
Trains to Tunghsiao depart from Taipei and Taichung regularly throughout the day. If traditional Chinese architecture isn't your cup of tea, Tunghsiao has a pleasant beach where you can relax in the sun. It's also a great place to cool off after touring the countryside.
Copyright 1995 Vision International Publishing Co.