Sitting in one of Taipei's traffic jams, surveying the city's chaotic expanse of concrete and asphalt, you may find yourself asking why Portuguese sailors used to call Taiwan "Ilha Formosa," the Beautiful Island. To find the answer, and to restore your own sense of Formosa, you need to get out of the city and into the mountains.
There's no shortage of these in Taiwan. The highest and most famous peaks are in the central part of the island, far from any city. But if you're a traveler with a very limited schedule or a Taipei resident who just wants to get away for a day, don't be discouraged. Some of Taiwan's most spectacular mountain scenery is just an hour or two away from downtown Taipei.
Away from the hustle and bustle of Taipei city, Tatun natural Park is an ideal place for sightseeing, relaxing both body and mind,enjoying fresh air, and watching interesting birds, butterflies, and plants.
North of Taipei, rising up past the Shihlin district, lies a very prominent cluster of mountains which are normally referred to as Yangmingshan, or Yangming Mountains. Actually, Yang-mingshan is the name of a large national park, not the name of a particular mountain. Within this park there are several attractions, one of the best being Tatun Natural Park. This park is named after Mt. Tatun, 1,080 meters high, the second highest peak in Yangmingshan Park (the highest is the nearby Seven Stars Mountain, 1,120 meters high). Aside from the magnificent view from Tatun peak, the park offers excellent hiking and a chance to see some interesting birds, butterflies, plants, and if you're lucky, wild animals.
As a "park within a park," Tatun Natural Park is a hazily defined area in the western section of Yangmingshan National Park, extending from Mt. Tatun northward to Mt. Tsaikungkang. It is more remote than many other parts of Yangmingshan Park, but it is well worth the extra effort it takes to get there provided you heed the following advice.
First, if possible, visit the park on a day other than Sunday, and also avoid public holidays. On weekdays Tatun is a place to get in touch with nature. On Sundays and holidays it is human nature, in droves, that you are more likely to get in touch with.
Second, be sure to bring your own food and water, as there are no stores or restaurants within the park; keep in mind also that barbecuing and camping are not allowed. Finally, dress warmly during winter months, for the park is much cooler than Taipei.
To get there take Chungshan North Road north from Taipei to Shihlin, turning right on Fulin Road . Stay on this road as it changes names twice, first to Yangte Boulevard and then, within Yangmingshan Park, to Yangchin Highway . Continue on this road past the main parking area of Yangmingshan Park for fifteen minutes or so until you come to Balaka Highway , which branches off to the left. Marking this intersection is a sign indicating the entrance of Tatun Natural Park. This sign is completely in Chinese, unfortunately, but the two characters composing "tatun" are easy to recognize. If you find these two in the top left corner of the sign, you can be sure you are at the right intersection.
To get there using public transportation, take the Taipei-Chinshan bus operated by the Taiwan Bus Company . This bus starts at Taipei West Station , near the main train station, and takes the same route as described into Yangmingshan Park (and beyond to Chinshan Beach). Tell the bus driver you want to go to the Tatun Natural Park (or show him the written characters), and get off at the intersection of Yangchin and Balaka highways. There's no public transportation actually going into the park; from here, without your own vehicle, you'll have to hike a good distance to reach the park's attractions.
From the Yangchin intersection, approximately two kilometers up the Balaka Highway is a parking lot to the right, which is a good place to leave your vehicle if you wish to do so. The hiking paths in the park are very nicely kept and offer more peace and seclusion than the roads. But if you're not in the mood for a steep hike, you're still in luck; most places in the park are accessible by road as well as path. Across the road from the parking lot is the beginning of a path which leads to the top of Mt. Tatun. This is a steep climb, but the view from the top will make it well worthwhile.
Or you can continue up the road for two kilometers or so until you come to another parking lot, then turn left onto the road which heads up the mountain. Climbing steeply up this road you will soon arrive at the highlight of Tatun Natural Park: the peak of Tatun Mountain. The prime real estate up here is occupied by an Air Force radar and weather station, which is strictly out of bounds for visitors (plainclothes soldiers, distinguishable from ordinary sightseers by the walkie-talkies they carry, guard the area day and night). Four lookout platforms along the road outside the perimeter of the station offer different views of the surrounding area.
Provided the air is reasonably clear, the view from any of these platforms is spectacular. As if laid out on a map, the entire northern tip of Taiwan is visible in a panorama of mountains, rivers, the ocean, and urban sprawls. To the north, far below you, is the sparkling Pacific Ocean, dotted with ships and fishing boats chugging to and from the nearby towns of Tamsui and Keelung. Clearly visible to the northwest lies the wide mouth of the Tamsui River, which turns to a brilliant orange when the late afternoon sun shines on it. A long stretch of the river itself is also visible, winding upward from the sea to Taipei, where it is joined by the Keelung River flowing in from the east, and fading into the distant high mountains rising south of he city past the suburb of Hsintien.
From this height you also have an excellent view of Taipei and its suburbs, lying under a layer of haze and filling the Taipei basin. During the day, this urban sprawl is impressive for its sheer size. After dark it becomes beautiful, transforming into a vast sea of twinkling lights.
The surrounding mountains are also beautiful, particularly when a breeze sways the grass which covers their slopes. (Yangming Mountains was originally known as Grass Mountains until the name was changed by the late President Chiang Kai-shek to honor the 16th-century philosopher Wang Yang-ming.) At each observation platform is a sign denoting the names of the peaks in front of you. Unfortunately, for visitors who cannot read Chinese, none of this is legible. But without any help you should be able to locate Seven Stars Mountain, Mt. Tatun's slightly taller neighbor to the east. On one slope of this mountain you can see a smoldering rocky crater, a present-day reminder of the immense volcanic activity that formed all these mountains millions of years ago.
After the great view from Tatun Peak, exploring the rest of the park is somewhat anticlimactic, unless you are a certified, binoculars-toting wildlife buff. About a kilometer back down the Balaka Highway is the main parking area of Tatun Natural Park, adjoined by a meadow of well-groomed grass and a fish pond criss-crossed by raised wooden walkways. Here is where nature, particularly in the form of birds, butterflies, and wild flowers, can be observed and appreciated.
As described on one of the many signs spread about the park, in the spring this area is famous for its colorful variety of wildflowers and butterflies. In summer, the sounds of crickets and cicadas fill the air. Autumn is notable for the beautiful reddening leaves of deciduous trees, while in winter the prime attraction is the variety of migratory birds and water fowl. Fans of wild animals may be excited by the remote prospect of spotting a wild boar, deer, or bear. Plant lovers, however, are luckiest of all, as uncommon trees, shrubs, and grasses are here all year round.
For all its reputation as a nature sanctuary, Tatun Natural Park will probably disappoint those who have been led to expect it to be bursting at the seams with wildlife. From my experience, especially if you stay within the meadow and pond area, the only animals you are certain to see on any given day are humans and goldfish. Plants are certainly here in abundance, but this holds true for any non-paved, non-farmed area on the island.
Bird watchers, butterfly lovers, and plant collectors must be patient, informed, and observant to find what they're looking for. The best place to hunt for these types of creatures, I'm told, is along the hiking trails that lead to quiet areas inaccessible to cars and motorscooters. One such spot is Erhtzu Flat, a grassy knoll tucked within a tiny valley between Tatun and Erhtzu mountains. This spot, as well as Tatun Flat, is a good picnic and rest area for hikers on their way up or down Mt. Tatun.
After a day of exploring Tatun Natural Park, you're likely to find the ride back--that long descent into Taipei, with its choking air and traffic--a melancholy experience suggestive of Dante's descent into the Inferno. But if you're like me, you'll find that once you're back at home or hotel, your urban existence has been enriched by the trip. The next time you find yourself in a particularly nasty traffic jam, for instance, you'll be able to take comfort in the knowledge that "Formosa" is always up there, within easy reach, waiting for your return.