The flock's descent had not gone unnoticed. A stalwart band of local residents in camouflage and khaki outfits joined by a group of multinational mercenaries lay in wait for their landing. They had stealthily crept through the marshlands in anticipation of this ambush. The time was ripe; poised, they awaited only their leader's command to spring into action.
Would this be the end of the Spoonbills? Was their journey in vain? No, the "guerillas" were friendly. The group was part of the Tainan Birdwatching Club and the trap, if we can call it a trap, was an auspicious one: it was preparing to shoot film, not bullets. And if there was any capturing to be done, it was for the purposes of banding or checking previous bands.
Such minidramas are part of the life of a birdwatcher in Taiwan. The Spoonbills are not the only birds that use Taiwan as a nesting place in their migrations, but they have attracted critical attention because they are on the endangered species list. Of the some 400 remaining Spoonbills in the world, Taiwan has the fortune (and responsibility) of hosting the largest number, around 200, in their winter nesting grounds.
International Visitors
Taiwan is on the flight path of hundreds of bird species that come to Taiwan from Siberia, Alaska, China, Japan, and other places on their way south to spend the winter in the warmer climates of the Philippines or Indonesia.
Imagine the wonders of nature that, as a birdwatcher, you will have the pleasure to observe. Nature has blessed Taiwan with a biological cornucopia highlighting many-colored species in a variety of sizes from Swinhoe's Pheasant to the Formosan Blue Magpie, from the Taiwan Laughing Thrush to the larger raptors and birds of prey such as the Gray-faced Buzzard Hawk and the Keelung Eagle. Residents and tourists (especially from Japan) take advantage of the fact that over 450 species of birds are concentrated in such a small area, only about 36,000 square kilometers. That's almost as many as can be found in Japan (500) and more than half the number that can be found in the United States (800).
The Wild Bird Society of the Republic of China estimates that 40% of these avian creatures are resident, another 40% are migratory, and the remaining 20%, well, they are just lost. With strong winds and typhoons perennially blasting the surrounding areas, many a bird gets off its migratory path and finds itself looking for any port in a storm. The topography of Taiwan offers a wide range of available habitats for birds, ranging from sea-level flatlands to peaks nearly 4,000 meters high. The climate varies according to the topography, providing something for just about everyone. When should one take advantage of these gifts of nature? Between September and May is best, when birds are either migrating in one direction or the other or just wintering in Taiwan.
"At that time few of us could even afford a good pair of binoculars," Eu recalls. But as the economy boomed and provided more leisure time, membership increased, other local groups developed, and bird watchers soon had the best equipment available. "The Tourism Bureau once sponsored free tours to Ilan for biology teachers to watch the many migratory birds. The teachers could then promote an interest in birds and conservation among the future generations of students," he says. Eu remembers one such time at the Lanyang River estuary, where along with researcher Peter Chen of Tunghai University he saw over 3,000 ducks at one time.
Early research and banding of birds had been carried on by the United States military stationed in Taiwan as they sought to find if migratory birds carried germs that could contaminate people. Now it is done by groups such as Taiwan Endemic Species Research Institute and the Wild Bird Society. "I got into working with birds through my wife," states Roger Wang, associate secretary general of the Wild Bird Society. He had worked as an advertising copywriter before becoming a convert to birds and conservation. Seated in the society's small office off Fuhsing South Road in Taipei, he talks of the group's goals of conservation, research, and the promotion of birdwatching.
Huh I Hsien is in charge of the banding of birds in Taiwan. He has always been a nature lover and a mountain climber; a newspaper report brought him to a local birdwatching club, which got him hooked. His work is not easy, as his group strives to provide much-needed data on the migratory habits and paths of birds. "We have occasional confrontations with poachers and illegal hunters in the swamps, but sometimes the danger is from the birds themselves," he comments. Hawks, herons, and egrets have left their marks on his arms with their razor-sharp bills. "Even the small shrike has an amazingly strong bill that can leave a hole in your hand."
In the last decade, Taiwan has acted more vigorously to help bird species. In 1981, the Cultural Assets Preservation Law established nine nature reserves to protect rare flora and fauna, and therefore the natural habitat of many birds. In the mid-1980s the creation of four national parks in the different parts of the island ensured additional habitat space. Finally the Wildlife Conservation Act of 1989 created three levels of protection for local plants, animals, and birds. These levels range from "endangered" to "rare and valuable" to those that "require conservation measures." But, of course, more action is needed as the constant battle of development and growth vies for Taiwan's scant remaining open space.
Bird watching and being out in nature has had spin-offs into the arts. Many club members have gone into the art of photography as they record the colorful variety of birds in their natural habitat. Others have turned to drawing and painting in the tradition of ornithologist-artist John James Audubon. Chen Yi Ming of the provincial government's Forestry Institute is known for his realistic portrayal of birds with exacting detail as he works in oils and ink. And Hu Hwa Ren, another artist, has produced excellent wood cuts.
The Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications, publishes an informative pamphlet on "Bird Watching in Taiwan." This colorful brochure lists the 10 best bird watching sites on the island and is available to both residents and visitors. The sites are differentiated among categories of ocean, freshwater, and mountain birds. Given the mountainous topography of Taiwan, it is not surprising that the majority of the sites are located in the mountains. The pamphlet also gives instructions on how to contact local groups, how to dress for an outing, what equipment to take, and other general information about birdwatching.
